Pat Smith (camp business manager), Becky Smith (photographer) and I (Chuck Smith) visited Camp Whitsett on Tuesday morning, July 30. We wanted to get our scanner to scan in some of our photographs, and to see for ourselves what the camp looked like. I went through a whole body of emotions as we drove the 32 miles up Mountain Highway 99. We left Kernville following close behind our Forest Service escort. We stopped to check in, then drove through the CHP checkpoint under heavy smoke (the Kern Valley is experiencing heavy smoke days because of the McNally and other fires in the area). I knew that this part of the Forest was clear but looked around expectantly. At about the five mile mark we observed charred brush, trees and ground. The fire, which had started up the road, also burned south toward Kernville. We passed by a sign that said "Be Safe With Fireworks"; charred ground lay all around. As we drove on, more and more land was blackened. We observed a strange white ash lying in spots on top of the black. Trees in the distance began to show up completely burned. Whole areas look strangely empty, having been dark green a few weeks ago, heavy with brush. A cheerful feeling overtook us as we passed the newest resort at Corral Creek. It is under construction and the owner was working on his second floor seemingly oblivious to the blackened earth behind him. McNally's "Fairview on the Kern" was next. This motel and restaurant, widely known for its stupendous steaks, was clear. Another "happy" feeling. Then, the moment I dreaded: Road's End. This historic spot, which at one time was the end of the road, was almost entirely gone. Everything was burned to the ground. Only the chimney where the restaurant, that once served the best prime rib I have ever eaten, stood amidst the ruin. The copious trees that used to overhang the road? Gone. One lone table sat on the patio in front of where the store once stood. As in many fires, three of the cabins miraculously remained untouched. The fire started at Road's End and spread north and south. It quickly scorched up river, destroying everything in its path. We continued to drive up Mountain 99 observing this destruction. Our elation at having seen McNally's unscathed, dropped further and further down in an inverse relation as we rose higher and higher in elevation. One note --- So. Cal. Edison was out in force replacing power poles that had been destroyed. We saw a helicopter lift a pole from their Brush Creek storage area to the hillside for erection. As we turned the bend, into the area just south of Johnsondale, we saw the full force of what a fire can do. Only black debris, not recognizable as trees, stood in places where I remember trees and thick brush. And over all the black, lay that white ash. Around Johnsondale black stalks stood against the smoky background. Johnsondale was clear. The Forest Service had lit backfires to protect this town and resort (The "R" Ranch - In the Sequoias). The oppressive blackened earth surrounded Johnsondale but the fire did not make it into the town. We continued on the road to Whitsett. On the right --- scorch marks. On the left --- clear green. Sentinel Peak could be seen through the thick smoke as we continued on the Lloyd Meadow Road. Each turn brought renewed elation because we could see less and less evidence of a fire. We turned into the camp road, under the gateway. Everything looked fine --- nothing looked amiss. In the heart of camp one would not know that a fire had raged by a week before. The only evidence was smoky air (and that wasn't too bad in camp). Everything looked just as we had left it. Books, paperwork and sipper bottles remained on the tables Under the Big Top (even the fan to cool Bev, who was taking ice cream, rafting and service sign-ups, was standing). Some pens and troop lists were on the tables in front of the Trading Post. It looked as though we had just stepped away for a moment. Everything was OK! Sentinel had a strange orange stain on its south east edge, but everything was OK!!!!! We went to the lake, it looked fine. Tents were down in Hopi campsite and things looked windblown. The down draft from the large Crane Helicopters had flattened things a bit. NOTE: These helicopters are awesome. Two, one thousand gallon tanks hang, from the slender bodies, which resemble a dragon fly. A flexible snorkel hangs from the tanks. This snorkel can suck up the two thousand gallons of water in less than a minute - I think I was told in 30 seconds! The helicopter can then hover over a hot spot and deliver as little or as much water as needed - all controlled by the helicopter pilots. The down draft from the 6 blades sprays surface water everywhere, and would certainly scare any fish away from the snorkel --- it would resemble a giant, hovering bird. Everything else looked OK. Our positive feeling were back. Everything was OK!!!!! Then ... the first evidence of fire in or very close to Camp Whitsett. Blackened earth could be seen across from C.O.P.E. The charred ground went right up to the stream, or I should say started at the stream, the result of back fires lit to help stop the onrushing flames. It looked ominous but strangely peaceful. Horses were grazing under the high C.O.P.E. course adding a new element to the excitement: Horse droppings!. But, the horses looked fine, rested in fact ... After all, all they had to do was eat and play. Nobody riding on their backs. Nobody ordering them around ... just R & R for them. Gloom descended as we drove into the Horse area and saw Elephant Knob. The rock stood firm but all the brush was scorched. Gone ... Elephant Knob was blackened. As we rose over the Whitsett Sierra area I had immense mixed feelings. Horses were peacefully grazing on the deep green grass in the meadow, but beyond it --- blackened earth. Black tree stalks rose over black ground. Black stumps of burned bushes dotted the blackened edge of the meadow. And that eerie white ash lay in patches everywhere. Everything beyond the meadow looked ... words cannot describe the feelings I had then and have now. I was amazed and enthralled and frightened then ... the tears waited until I began typing that last sentence. And as I read and proof this page, those tears return. A week of standing firm. Now . . . Whitsett stands. It is quiet throughout the camp. Small sounds can be heard, nothing above a whisper. Whitsett will rise from the ashes. Whitsett remains to be a positive force in the lives of tens of thousands more Scouts and Adults over the coming years. We'll all look back on this with amazement. And, looking at the map and the way the fire curves around Whitsett, perhaps we'll wonder, "Is the White Horse story really true?" But for now, Whitsett is silent . . . And what is even more unbelievable. All this ... all this devastation in the largest fire ever to attack the Sequoia National Forest ... all this sadness and upheaval of lives during this past week and beyond ... all this turmoil ... all this because someone wanted a hot dog, built an illegal campfire in an uncleared area to cook it, then allowed that campfire to get away. Fire and Evacuation A large
fire started about 10 miles from Whitsett at about 2:15 p.m. Sunday afternoon,
July 21st, caused by an out-of-control campfire, in the area known as Road's
End Resort. It rapidly moved north toward Johnsondale and camp, and south
toward Kernville burning Road's End Resort in the process. [The famous
steak house, McNally's Fairview on the Kern Resort, one mile from Road's
End, was spared the devastation of Road's End, and still stands.] We were
ordered to evacuate Camp at approximately 3:00 Sunday afternoon, soon after
the start of the fire (we had been watching the progress of the fire and
had been in touch with the U.S. Forest Service, preparing for evacuation,
just in case). The Scouts who had just begun to arrive at camp, and the
majority of the 2002 Camp Staff, were transported to California Hot Springs
and were put up at the Hot Springs Elementary School, the guests of District
Superintendent Mr. I. J. Blevens. The Porterville Wal-Mart provided food
for the 465 campers and staff who gathered at the school, at no cost to
Camp. The food was transported to Hot Springs by adults of Porterville
Boy Scout Troop, #132, who arranged for the food, gathered it, and transported
it to camp after having been alerted by staff. [Dinner was courtesy of
the Porterville Wal-Mart at no charge to Whitsett]. The Tulare-Kings chapter
of the American Red Cross arrived at about 8:30 pm and provided water,
ice, cots, blankets, and great support all during our "Refugee Camp" stay.
The Red Cross continued its presence until Monday afternoon providing coffee
(yea!), water and ice.
A very special thanks to the U.S. Forest Service for their efforts on behalf of Camp Whitsett and the other places in the Sequoia National Forest where people's hearts are located. Camp Whitsett was used as a fire base camp because of its facilities (normally room for over 500 - which includes a kitchen and dining area, storage, bathrooms, showers, etc.), large lake for fire-fighting water supply, open ground for air staging area, and closeness to a choice of roads out of the area. The fact that Whitsett was a very defensible Fire Camp had its advantages to us --- a better than 50-50 chance of still being here. In a way, Whitsett had a hand in helping to protect itself and the area near us. Major Rainstorm brings damage Over
a three day period, November 9, 10 and 11, Camp Whitsett and the surrounding
Sequoia National Forest received nearly 17 inches of rain. The excessive
rain caused some road washouts at Whitsett and dropped a tree which fell
on the Commissary which damaged the roof. The biggest problem was the tremendous
amount of water coming down the Kern River. At one time, the river was
running over 26,000 cubic feet a second of water coming past the Kernville
Bridge (at the beginning of the summer there was under 2,000 cubic feet
per second) -- this is flood stage. Not only was there a large amount of
water, but it was black with ash and mud, and filled with burnt logs. The
mud and ash also inundated the Fish Hatchery, and almost destroyed all
the fish. Because of the quick, diligent effort of a group of volunteers,
the fish were harvested and set free in Lake Isabella (resulting in a fishing
heaven for a while). The roof can be repaired --- we haven't heard any
word on what erosional damage was done to the thousands of burnt acres
of precious forest land. As soon as the Forest Service can ascertain the
damage, or we can get an update from our Camp Ranger, we will report it
here.
UPDATED 1/1/03
Imagine the number of Scouts that amount of money could send to Summer Camp - any summer camp! .. .. WERE YOU ONE OF THE SCOUTS, LEADERS OR STAFF "REFUGEES"? .. IF SO, PLEASE SEND YOUR REFLECTIONS TO CHUCK SMITH campwhitsett@yahoo.com .. Read "My Fire Reflections" |
Sequoia
National Forest Lookouts
..
Forest Service Map showing the
location of Camp Whitsett
This map almost brings "daymares"
of what Might-Have-Been
Notice how the fire curved around
Whitsett, sparing the camp from
destruction. We thank the Forest
Service and Providence for intervention
on behalf of Camp Whitsett and
especially Jim Uny, our Camp Ranger,
for cutting a wide fire break
around Whitsett - that helped save us.
..
Map as of 8/13
...